New Hound Owner's Manual

You’ve just adopted a greyhound, one of the most regal of breeds! Now what??? Here are a few suggestions to make your hound’s adjustment to its new environment as smooth as possible.

 

 

HOUSE TRAINING

No one wants their home to become an indoor fire-hydrant, so to speak. The foster family has probably given you useful information on how your greyhound has done in their home, but every situation is new and needs to be treated as such. The following techniques will help eliminate many issues:

• Containment
  There are two very useful tools at your disposal to help prevent accidents in your home, especially in the first few days when your greyhound is getting adjusted to its new home and lifestyle: the leash and the crate. When you first get your greyhound home, take them immediately outside on the leash and lead them to the spot where you want them to do their duties. If they do not go, that is perfectly normal – but it is important to give them every opportunity to do so. Once they are inside the house, continue to keep them with you on the leash while they explore the home. Letting them loose immediately to investigate your home is only inviting trouble. After they have explored your home a little, and/or if they look like they are about to “mark” in your home, give a gentle tug on the collar (while saying “no” or “uh,uh,uh” if they were about to pee) and then give them a cue phrase like “Want to go outside?” and get them outside as quickly as possible. If they eliminate outside (even just a little) give them big praises!! We realize it is not easy to do your daily home activities tethered to a dog – so if you are unable to hold on to them, make sure you use the second tool: the crate. Putting them in the crate is not a punishment – it is a safety measure and a training tool (see Kenneling section of this manual). Make sure the crate you use is large enough for your greyhound. Your hound should be able to stand up straight and turn around in the crate without their back touching the roof. If housetraining is going well, we recommend that you continue to do this for at least the first two to three days, or longer, of course, if your hound still isn’t getting it.
• Establishing a Schedule
  The life of a racing greyhound is very regimented. They are fed and exercised at the same times every day. Getting your greyhound on a schedule they can count on will also help in the housetraining process.

Typically a new greyhound makes the association of not soiling its kennel, to not soiling in the whole house very quickly. If your hound is still having trouble with housetraining after a couple of weeks, please contact your adoption representative as this may be a sign of a more serious physical and/or behavioral problem.

 

CAT TRAINING

Some of you may be bringing your hound home much to the dismay of your resident cat. We test incoming hounds to see if they are capable of learning to live with cats, and many of our foster homes have cats as well. Even so, each hound can only be considered “cat TRAINABLE” not “cat-safe” until they have fully settled into their new home. There are some critical safety precautions when introducing your new hound to your kitty.

Keep your hound muzzled and on a leash when you first bring them into the house. If you cannot supervise all interactions between the cat and the hound, keep the animals separated. Keep the provided muzzle on your hound for several days, until you have observed how your hound interacts with the cat and are completely confident of your greyhound leaving the cat alone. Whenever the cat is present, be calm and happy. Speak calmly – this will set the stage for positive behavior towards the cat. Reward your hound for paying more attention to you than the cat. Make your hound’s calmness in the presence of the cat a very good thing. At the same time, any response toward the cat that is anything more than idle curiosity must be strongly discouraged. Respond to each and every incident. If you ignore even one, the act of chasing the cat may be just too self-rewarding to overcome.

For this reason, prevention is a stronger tool than reaction. Keep high-value treats on you, and try to calmly catch your dog’s attention and distract positively with treats when you notice the cat entering the vicinity. Continue rewarding the dog with praise and treats for ignoring the kitty.

If your hound shows any interest in the cat at all (i.e. staring, whining, or attempting to chase), distract in your deepest, loudest voice “NO KITTY.” It is important that you let them know that the cat is off limits. Even if they eventually do become lounging buddies, it is never good to let the hound chase or play with the cat. Once they have turned away from the cat, redirect their attention positively with high-value treats to reward them for ignoring the cat.

If the behavior/interest persists, get a squirt bottle filled with water and set it to stream. Every time your hound exhibits an undesirable behavior, squirt it in the back of the head (not the face) while yelling “NO KITTY”. Another deterrent is an empty soda can with a few coins inside. Every time your hound starts for the cat, shake the can to distract them. Unless your cat is particularly dog-friendly, expect him/her to hiss or hide for a while until he/she settles in and accepts the new member of the family.

HOUND-PROOFING YOUR HOME

In a hound’s mind, the fluffier the thing is, the better. If you do not want your hound up on the bed or furniture, let them know immediately by gently, but firmly, saying “no.” Lure your greyhound off the undesired place and to their own cushy bed. Provide a little treat and positive reinforcement.

Remember that greyhounds are tall dogs, able to reach high places – countertops being one of their favorite places to explore. Move anything valuable, edible, breakable, or potentially harmful to higher ground or behind closed doors. We recommend you store your medications in a high cabinet or on top of the refrigerator. Greyhounds have been known to chew open medicine bottles and ingest the entire contents. 

 

PROPER FEEDING

Maintaining the proper weight for your greyhound is one of the most important things you can do to ensure the good health and long life of your retired racer. Depending on the size of your greyhound and the caloric content of your kibble, they should be fed about 2.5-5 cups of kibble a day. We recommend that you feed your hound twice a day (1.25-2.5 cups at each feeding). A greyhound’s ribs will tell you if they are getting enough – or too much. You should not be able to see all of their ribs, only a hint of the last three ribs on a pet greyhound. If you can see all of your hound’s ribs, you should ask your veterinarian about increasing the amount of food they are eating. If their ribs have disappeared, you might consider cutting back on the treats, slightly reduce daily portions of kibble, or increasing their daily exercise. If you can’t feel their ribs, then they are overweight. If you are trying to decide whether or not to put your hound on a diet, it is best to consult your veterinarian first.

Greyhounds can eat/drink out of raised bowls or bowls set on the floor. There are pros and cons to each method. Ask your veterinarian what may be right for your hound.

 

DIARRHEA
Some greyhounds will get diarrhea due to nerves or a change of diet/treats. Depending on the severity, the following options could be considered. Remember to always consult with your veterinarian.

Poo very soft, but controlled? To help firm up stool, you can feed your hound a temporary bland diet of cooked white rice and cooked low-fat ground beef. You can also mix in some white rice with the kibble. You may have success by adding fiber to the diet in the form of a dollop of canned pumpkin (not the sweetened pie filling!) or rehydrated Olewo carrots, or probiotic supplements. Do not throw too many changes at the dog at once though, or you won’t know which method worked!

Runny & watery? Consider fasting your hound for 12-24 hours. They can drink as much water as they’d like (never limit water). Reintroduce a bland diet of ground beef and cooked white rice. Start with small meals and assess output. If stool starts to firm, gradually replace with kibble over the course of 2-3 days.

If you see blood in the dog’s stool, or diarrhea issues persist longer than a couple days, or your dog is having uncontrollable accidents, contact your veterinarian.

 

BLOAT
Greyhounds are considered a deep-chested breed of dog and thus prone to bloat or gastric torsion. This is a build up of air and fluids that promotes gas in the stomach and can make it flip, cutting off the blood supply to vital organs. It is an emergency matter of life and death – so if you suspect your hound has it, get it to the vet immediately!!

Signs of bloat:

• A hard, distended abdomen
• Extreme restlessness or panting
• Uneventful vomiting (dry heaves)
• Drooling
• An arched back
• Difficulty walking

Some steps owners can take to possibly reduce the risk of bloat include:

• Feed two or three times a day, preferably at times when someone can observe after-feeding behavior
• Discuss bloat with your veterinarian and discuss emergency measures.
• Make sure water is available at all times, but limit quantities, especially right after eating and exercising vigorously
• Dogs should avoid vigorous exercise, excitement, and stress one hour before and two hours after meals (Leashed walks are okay!)
• Make diet changes gradually over a period of 3-5 days
• Feed susceptible dogs individually and in a quiet location
• Be aware that dogs who survive bloat are at increased risk of recurrence

KENNELING

In order for your greyhound to become (or stay) accustomed to being in its kennel, you need to introduce it very soon after getting him/her home. A technique to acclimate your hound to its kennel is “random kenneling”.

One important thing to remember for the first couple of days is to not make a big fuss over them. Retired racing hounds are used to a schedule of resting in their crate, getting let out 4-5 times a day for bathroom duties and exercise, and then back into the crate. They catch onto the good life very quickly and you want to make sure that you teach them what is expected of them right away. 

Problems could arise if they are not crated for the first couple of days upon arrival, and then they are put in the crate and expected to accept being in there for eight hours while you are at work. Start putting them in the crate shortly after you get them home.

Start with establishing the crate routine, which begins with an opportunity to relieve themselves on a walk or yard turnout. When back indoors, show them the crate and see if the hound will go in on its own. Some will, some won’t, and some need a little coaxing (lure with a tasty treat, or if needed, a gentle nudge on the hind quarters followed by immediate reward). If the hound will not voluntarily go in, try taking a treat, show it to the hound and then toss the treat into the kennel. If the hound does go in, praise it highly and give it another treat. Once they are in the crate with a treat, shut the door and quietly walk away and/or leave the house. Some hounds are very persistent. Do not give in to their cries. Leave them in their crate for 15 minutes or so and then let them out without arousing excitement. Repeat this crate-training routine periodically every day for the first week. Continue working up to longer times in the crate. A webcam can be a useful tool to watch how your new dog is doing while you are away.

Try not to let the hound out of its crate while it is whining or carrying on. Wait until it is quiet to let it out or they will think that every time they carry on, you are going to run over and let them out. Some greyhounds develop separation anxiety in their new environment and getting them used to being in their crate for short periods will help curb that.

Feeding in the crate is another positive factor. They are frequently fed in their crate at the track. This follows the thought of “all good things happen in the crate.” Never use their crate as a means of punishment. This will undo all the good, positive ideas of them being crated. Discipline for a greyhound is a good, firm “NO.” Simple as that. This is a very gentle breed of dog, unlike any other dog you will ever own. With patience and understanding they will come to learn exactly what you want and what is expected of them.

It is a good idea to keep them used to wearing their muzzle periodically. It might be needed if your hound has to be introduced to small animals (cats, small dogs, other small pets) at some time. Put the muzzle on them for about 10 minutes, once a week, just to keep them familiar with it. They may act as if it is a totally foreign object to them – rubbing against you or the furniture or whatever, in an attempt to get it off. Do not be fooled by this, they know exactly what it is and it isn’t going to hurt them to have it on.

 

SEPARATION ANXIETY

Some greyhounds are prone to separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is the common term used for stress behaviors that only appear when a dog’s owners leave them alone in the house. These behaviors can manifest themselves in various ways, depending on the dog. The most common behaviors are:

• Destructiveness (chewing, digging, tearing up its bedding or other household items, trying to escape by damaging windows and doors)
• Self-mutilation (obsessive licking or biting at its own body – usually the paws or the tail)
• Vocalization (excessive howling or barking when left alone)
• Excessive Salivation (soaking the dog’s body and bedding)
• Pacing
• Urination/Defecation even if housetrained

These behaviors usually start within minutes of the owner leaving and peak at around 30 minutes after the owner has left. They will usually then decline after about 30 minutes. These behaviors are a reaction to stress, and therefore punishing the dog for these behaviors is ineffective and inappropriate. 

If your dog exhibits separation anxiety, there are several things that you can do to help alleviate it. Start by leaving your dog for several short periods of time. At first, you may only take a walk around the house and then come right back inside. Give your hound a verbal cue such as “see you” or “I’ll be right back”. Make sure you don’t make a big fuss upon leaving and especially upon returning. This just reinforces the idea that your leaving is a terrible thing and something for your greyhound to get worked up about. Use a normal tone of voice when giving the verbal cue and ignore your dog for the first minute or so upon returning. You can gradually work up to leaving for longer and longer times. A dog that can be left for an hour or so can gradually learn to make it the whole day. 

Other things that help alleviate anxiety:

• Turn on the radio or the television. The background noise often soothes an anxious dog.

• Give your dog something to do. Many people fill the hole in the Kong with peanut butter and treats and stick it in the freezer. It takes a while for the dogs to get the peanut butter out, and by that time they have relaxed enough to make it the rest of the day. 

If your greyhound has separation anxiety, using the crate may or may not help. For some hounds the enclosed space creates a safety zone, but for others the kennel creates a claustrophobia that only increases the panic. If your greyhound seems to be trying to tear its way out of the kennel we have a couple of recommendations:

• Use a baby gate to confine your greyhound to a main room in your home (do NOT enclose the dog in a small room like a bedroom or bathroom- this will only cause MORE anxiety) giving your greyhound a comfortable, yet safe, place.
• If your greyhound is exhibiting destructive behavior as part of its separation anxiety, put its muzzle on when unsupervised.

Some hounds do just fine if they are left free in the home. If you are going to choose this option, make sure you start by leaving them out for very short periods at a time and then gradually work up to longer times.

Separation anxiety can be frustrating, especially if you have never dealt with it before. If you are experiencing any problems with your hound and separation anxiety, please contact your GPA MN adoption representative immediately. Most of us have dealt with it in our own hounds or fosters, and we will try our best to help you get through it as well.

 

SLEEP STARTLE OR SLEEP AGGRESSION

Sleep Startle is an animal reacting aggressively to being abruptly awakened. Fight or Flight – it is what animals live by. If you wake up a dog out of a sound sleep - and yes, they can and do sleep with their eyes open – you risk unleashing this basic instinct. This reaction does not make your dog a bad dog. You simply have to be aware of it and wake any sleeping dog carefully. Wake your dog with sound, not touch. Say your dog’s name until he alertly responds; speak loudly enough to rouse him, and never lean over or reach across a sleeping greyhound. Be respectful of the dog’s sleeping space at all times. This is especially important if there are children in the home.

 

VETERINARY CARE NEEDS

When choosing a vet, make sure you pick one that has had experience with greyhounds. Because of their unique constitution they are very sensitive to certain medications 

and anesthesia. Do not be afraid or embarrassed to discuss these needs with your vet. There is a list of GPA MN recommended Vets that do most of the vetting for our foster hounds. This list can be found on our website.

INSECTICIDES AND OTHER TOXINS

Greyhounds, because of their low body fat and fast metabolism, are especially sensitive to insecticides and other substances. Substances to watch out for are:

• Flea and Tick Products. DO NOT USE FLEA COLLARS!
  Flea collars contain chemicals that go directly into a greyhound’s blood stream and can cause serious health problems and possibly death. Flea and tick shampoos and sprays that are safe are those with PYRETHRINS as the main ingredient. You can also try one of the citrus-based products. DO NOT use any flea/tick products that contain organophosphates. An example of an organophosphate is Carbaryl which can be found in flea powder, some shampoos and sprays. Products like Frontline, Advantage Multi, etc. are okay to use on your greyhound, however, always speak with your veterinarian before starting or stopping a treatment/medication.
• Lawn Chemicals
  These can be fatal to greyhounds. Do not allow your greyhound to walk on chemically treated areas while the grass is still wet. Lawn services are required to mark treated areas. If you suspect your dog has walked on treated areas, wash or wipe their feet off with a wet rag.

Call your veterinarian or emergency vet immediately if any of these items have been ingested or you suspect your hound has ingested a poisonous item or foreign object

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS

Sometimes the little things in everyday life can lead to big problems for your greyhound. The following is a list of more common things to watch for while out and about. It is by no means a comprehensive list.

• Barbed Wire Fences Greyhounds might see something on the other side of the fence and begin the chase. At full speed he cannot see the fence and will crash into it. The result can be lethal.

• Birdbaths, Wading Pools, Puddles, Ponds, Etc. Do not allow your greyhound to drink out of these. Stagnant water, combined with bird droppings or other animal feces and bacteria can lead to serious illness such as giardia.

• Sticks and Stones
  It is a good idea to keep the twigs, small branches
  and stones picked up in the yard. While racing around, your greyhound can hit them or step on them at 30+mph leading to injury.

• Cooking and Outdoor Grills
  Keep your greyhound inside while grilling, and out of the kitchen when cooking. Your steak & onion dinner could be his if you turn your back for a moment. The risk of your hound getting burned or poisoned is very real!

• Swimming Pools
  Greyhounds are not naturally good swimmers. Never leave them unattended in the backyard with a pool. Usually, once your greyhound finds out he can’t walk on water, they will steer clear of the pool, but in a chase, all bets are off!

• Bee Stings
  Greyhounds can get stung too! Remove the stinger and ice the site. Watch for signs of allergic reaction (swelling, difficulty breathing) and contact your vet if necessary.

• Recliners
  Make sure your greyhound is not in the way when you let the chair down. They like to lie close to your feet and could be in jeopardy of a smashed nose, tail, or paw.

• Car Windows
  Do not allow your greyhound to hang his head out of the car window. There is too great a risk of injury from flying debris or your greyhound making a great escape to chase something they saw on the roadside while flying down the highway. With electric windows, be sure that needle noses or floppy ears or long tails aren’t sticking out of the window when you close it. Use the child safety controls to disable the door and window controls on the doors your hound has access to. Your hound can put his paws up on the door and inadvertently raise or lower the window.

 

CARE AND GROOMING

Greyhounds are very used to being handled at the track making it easy for you to groom your greyhound. 

The following are a few things to help you in grooming your greyhound:

• Teeth
  Brushing your greyhound’s teeth is the most important thing you can do for their care and well being. You should brush your greyhound’s teeth daily. Greyhounds have notoriously bad teeth and often suffer from periodontal disease. Keeping your greyhound’s teeth clean will help keep them healthy and will help avoid expensive and potentially risky dental procedures by your veterinarian.
• Ears
  Your greyhound’s ears should be cleaned monthly. Use cotton balls and a mild ear cleansing solution. Dampen the cotton ball with the solution and clean inside the flap on your greyhound’s ears. NEVER stick anything inside your greyhound’s ears, as damage can result. If you feel your greyhound may have deeply embedded dirt inside his ear, a few drops of the cleaning solution dropped directly into the ear canal and massaged on the outside will allow your greyhound to “shake out” some of the dirt. Only your vet or groomer should do extensive ear cleaning.               
• Nails
  Your greyhound will need its nails trimmed at least once a month. This may vary with the amount of exercise your greyhound is getting and how much natural wear their nails get. You should keep styptic powder on hand in case you clip too short, nicking the quick which can bleed profusely. In a pinch, flour, cornstarch or chalk will also work to quickly stop bleeding from a toenail nick. Another method of keeping your greyhound’s nails short is filing them with a Dremel tool. It may take some time and training to get your greyhound accustomed to the noise and vibration of a Dremel tool.
• Skin
  If your greyhound seems to have dry, itchy flaky skin, we recommend adding fish oil to their meals. If skin problems persist, consult your Vet. Red, itchy, or swollen paws may indicate an environmental allergy which may require a vet visit.
• Brushing
  You should brush your greyhound about once a week. Brushing helps pull out the dead undercoat and reduce any shedding. We recommend a soft rubber grooming mitt, as wire brushes are too harsh on thin greyhound skin.
• Bathing
  Greyhounds do not need frequent bathing. They do not have the oils in their coats that many other breeds produce and therefore their coats do not attract much dirt. Brushing once a week is usually sufficient to keep them clean. Bathing too often can cause skin problems.

WINTER WEAR  

Because of their low percentage of body fat, greyhounds need to wear a sweater when the temps are below 45 degrees, and a heavier coat below 30 degrees. 

COLLARS AND LEADS

Always use a well-fitted soft martingale collar (also called a “humane choke collar”) like the one provided to you by GPA MN. Ask your adoption representative to demonstrate how to properly fit a martingale collar. Greyhound skin is sensitive and thin and can not tolerate a metal choke or prong chain. NEVER use a retractable leash. There is not enough control with these. A standard six foot leash provides enough room for them to sniff around when they are walking, yet enough control in case they get spooked – especially when they are first learning your neighborhood. When they bolt, they can exert up to 230 pounds of pressure on your arm, and one or both of you will get injured. Martingale collars are to be used only when walking your greyhound and should be removed when indoors. Your greyhound should have a separate collar with identification tags attached. This is to be worn at all times, as this is reliably the fastest way for your dog to be returned to you should he get lost.

NEVER STAKE OR TIE OUT YOUR GREYHOUND 

Greyhounds reach top speeds in three strides and can snap their own neck when they hit the end of a tie-out. They must be on hand-held lead unless they are in a completely fenced area. Be sure to double check for open gates or gaps in the fence. If there is one, you can be guaranteed that your hound will find it. Remember that they have been bred for over 2,000 years for one sole purpose – to run, FAST. If they are off leash, that is exactly what they will do. As a sight hound, they can spot a moving object from a mile away and once the chase instinct sets in, no amount of calling, whistling is going to stop them from running. Since they do not stop to look for cars, a car is often what stops them.

This is why we ABSOLUTELY STRESS the fact that you MUST NOT LET THEM OFF LEAD NO MATTER WHAT! It does not matter how long you have had them or how much training they have had.

 

TRAINING - STAY POSITIVE!

Greyhounds and new adopters can both benefit from formal obedience training. It gives you excellent tools to teach a newly adopted dog what is expected of them in their new life post-retirement, and can be a great rapport-developing experience. Greyhounds respond to praise, treats and repetition. The most important part of training is to keep it positive and to exercise lots of patient patience.

• Discipline
  Dogs are only disciplined to get them to stop inappropriate behavior, so discipline can only take place while the dog is doing something wrong. Anything after the fact will not register in the dog’s mind as to why it is being disciplined. With greyhounds, ONLY non-physical discipline is appropriate. Two examples of non-physical discipline:

• Time Out
  Remove social contact with the dog by turning away, avoiding eye contact and generally ignoring them until the poor behavior stops.

• Distraction/Redirection
  Use a sharp vocal signal (“Ah! Ah!” or “No!”) to get their attention and then offer them praise and a toy or treat to get them to redirect their behavior

 

GREYT TIDBITS

Recognizing the critical adjustment period and successfully managing it without stress is a very important part of the greyhound adoption process. Becoming a house pet involves a very dramatic change in routine for your greyhound, and can take some time. 

Greyhounds are very intuitive and sensitive dogs with a lot of smarts. Some can open gates, cage doors, refrigerators, drawers, trash cans, and all kinds of containers. The Greyhound is an observer of everything. Their eyes and brain are working all the time – even when they sleep. And sleep is what they do best – besides loving you. Upside-down resting (known as cockroaching) is a common greyhound trait, and indicates a very relaxed dog, comfortable in its environment.

Some greyhounds also do a funny thing called “nitting”. They nibble or pinch at your hand or whatever body part is closest to them. Some of them will just do it in the air – which makes it look like their teeth are chattering. They will do this when they are glad to see you, or get excited about something like going out for a walk or for a ride in the car. 

The greyhound has a heart the size of a human’s and has a body composition that is 65% muscle. While being unusually quiet dogs, they will still occasionally bark, grumble, groan, sing, and whine in an attempt to communicate. The showing of gummy teeth while the dog is relaxed and happy is a grin, which is a common gleeful trait that can be startling to someone who has never seen it.

Cat-like, they may sometimes ignore you. Don’t be offended – this is their temperament. They are also cat-like in cleanliness. They will lick and wash themselves like a cat. Your greyhound may also choose to have selective hearing (deaf to their name, but ALL EARS if there’s a food wrapper crinkling three rooms away).

Take time to get to know the personality of your new dog and build your relationship with mutual trust and fun. He will fill your days with countless hours of love and companionship!

 

LET’S BE SOCIAL

Your greyhound has lived with lots of other greyhounds all its life. GPA MN has lots of opportunities to take your hound out to meet other greyhounds (and greyhound owners):

• Meet and Greets
  Meet and Greets are held almost every weekend at Twin Cities area pet stores and other pop-up locations. The schedule is listed on the GPA MN website. You do not have to call ahead or stay the whole time. Bring your Greyhound and drop in and say hi! We love visitors!
• Como Walk
  This easy 1.6 mile paved walk takes place every Sunday at 11am (sometimes 9am in the summer if it will be hot). Walkers meet at the Como Lakeside Pavilion in St Paul and stroll around the lake. Come join the fun!
• Special Events
  GreyFest, Dog Shows, State Fair, local festivals, and so much more! Show off your hound and celebrate greyhound adoption! Special events are posted on our website and our social media channels, and published in our e-newsletter which you can subscribe to below.

 

FINAL THOUGHTS

This manual is filled with a lot of dos and don’ts. This is not intended to discourage you in any way. We are trying to give you as much information as possible in order for your greyhound to successfully integrate into your home and your heart. Chances are, you will have few problems with your dog. With a little patience, time, and lots of love, you will have a “fast friend” forever.